Biography of Sung-Kyun Kim | Chapter 14:19 Part 1
17 ~ 25 JANUARY 2015 |
BALI AND SOUTH SULAWESI
With a flight of about seven hours from Incheon, Prof. Sung-Kyun Kim landed at Ngurah Rai International Airport, Bali on Jan 17 at 00:10. We met about 45 minutes later. We walked to the domestic departure area. In that part it was quiet, because there were no night flights. We sat near an empty guardhouse. There we chatted. Prof. Kim told me about some of his travel experiences in Indonesia. He said, since 30 years ago he began to come to Indonesia, frequently, every two or three years he came. Most of the trips he did alone, unless there were field trips related to the university that invited him.
Once, traveling in West Sumatra, he was hosted and let to stay home by a poor family. The family had many children. He slept in a very small room with a window without leaves. Somewhat difficult before bedtime because disturbed by mosquitoes. And, as soon as he was enjoying his sleep, a cat jumped in through the hole in the window and landed on his stomach, he was shocked terribly.
Woke up in the morning, Sung-Kyun Kim needed to use to the rest room. He was shocked again to see the line of family members in front of the toilet door. Long queues, everyone wanted to use the toilet that morning. He was forced to resist the urge to defecate, until his stomach hurt.
That's one of the stories from his journey in Indonesia 30 years ago, in 1985.
After waiting some hours in the Ngurah Rai domestic departure area, finally we departed from Bali, leaving for South Sulawesi. The Hasanuddin International Airport is located on the border of Makassar City, and Maros Regency, a suburb in South Sulawesi, 20 kms northeast from the Makassar city center. This airport is the main gateway for flights to the eastern part of Indonesia, and named after Sultan Hasanuddin, a Sultan of Gowa, Makassar ethnic Kingdom in the previous history.
Paotere Traditional Harbor
Paotere Harbor, in Gusung Village, Ujung Tanah District, Makassar City. This fishing village is also an auction of fresh fish and a kind of paradise for those who like to eat seafood. This village has many programs that are included, so that socio-economic changes, population and building density are higher, and motor vehicle emissions are increasing. Many locals use motorbikes. Rickshaws that used to be paddled only by human power, were transformed into motorized rickshaws. Street vendors and economic activity in the household also increased. Seen many motorbikes coming out of the aisle, unconsciously polluting the air in this settlement. This port, famous for its lively sunset, people say it's the most amazing.
Untia Village
Untia Village is a resettlement of Fishermen community from Laelae Island. Some residents of other regions around the village were join. This settlement is provided by the government, both housing and infra-structure. The village is located in District Biringkanaya, Makassar City.
The main livelihood of the village residents is fishing. There is also work as construction workers in the nautical school campus located in the same village. Some of the houses showed home economic activities, such as stalls daily necessities, and sellers of fuel.
Some houses have been renovated from the original typical housings were built by the government.There are some families make a place to sit in the front of his house. There are planting trees at the edge of the canal for green shade and cool atmosphere around the house. There also are making their own water reservoir, which is derived from the taps (public water).
After observing two fishermen kampung, we went to visit my aunt at Citra Daya Permai, Panser Street, Military Housing Estate. We were talking with my aunt, uncle, and cousins. They treat us a delicious local food dinner. There were a grill fish, special soup of meat, and spicy fried tempe. Completed with souce of peanut cabagge. What a wonderful togetherness...
Samalona Island
Enter through the gate Kayu Bangkoa, we rented a motor boat to the Samalona Island. Together my friend, Daeng Nuntung (Kamaruddin Aziz), an oceanology expert, graduated from Hasanuddin University, and his son. At the wooden “gate” of the island, there was a board with seven names of the island owners at that time: Rauf Dg. Bani, Hamzah Dg Ngitung, Colla Dg. Naba, Basse 'Dg Ni'ning, Sunday with Tika, Czech Dg. Ngasi, Regg Dg Garru.
Samalona Island is very beautiful. Soft white sand and sea water around the island is quite clear. I was so excited, I jumped to enjoy the air freely throughout my body's skin. Prof. Kim saw my jump and asked me to repeat so that he could take pictures of me. He said, it was very nice to see me so glad and happy. Yes, we both really enjoyed our time together on this island.
Unfortunately, in some parts there was a lot of trash littered, especially plastic waste of drinks and snacks packaging. Tourism had been giving bad impact for the island. It needed an early prevention of contamination to keep the island clean, beautiful and sustainable. With a population of 17 families, they, as the inhabitants of this island should have controlled the island environment.
They, the local people were to organize themselves as a community who can handle the cleanliness and ecology, with 3R (reduce, reuse, recycle) garbage manage-ment of the neighborhood consumption and tourists junk.
Thick and dark clouds sign of rain is coming, but the sea water seemed to wave nicely inviting me. I want to swim for a while, Sayangku. Sea water felt so cool on my skin. It started raining when I stopped swimming and headed to the shade where Prof. Kim sat waiting for me. Before reaching the place, he gave me a signal to jump again. With pleasure, I jumped in a drizzle, several times. There were so many photos of me jumping on Prof. Kim's gallery.
We spent almost a day-time on the island of white sand. We enjoyed the view of the surrounding beach and lunch, grilled fresh fish. Yes, we enjoyed being there. The weather was perfect! Sunny morning, cloudy forenoon, rainy mid-day, then sunny afternoon.
We went back to Makassar mainland with the same both and arrived at Kayu Bangkoa traditional harbor at late afternoon. We walk to the homestay while enjoying sightseeing along the street, Jl. Pasar Ikan. After a half hour resting at the homestay, we went out for a walk again. That time our destination were China Town and Losari Beach. We used becak from the homestay.
China Town in Makassar City
Jl. Sulawesi and Jl. Nusantara, and the roads that connect these two parallel streets are populated area pretty much the Chinese ethnic.
There are several pagoda in this region. In general, residents here and livelihood activity as traders. Usually their houses upstairs and the downstairs of the building is their shops. Sombaopu Street, The Shopping Center of Souvenir Sombaopu road is a typical souvenir shopping center area of Makassar.
It lies parallel to the road right Comforter bordering Losari Beach. On the left and right along the road Sombaopu is lined with shops. Most of these stores are owned and managed by Chinese ethnic . So there are some people consider this area as well as Chinatown. Souvenirs are sold in the form of traditional ethnic creative craft products Toraja, Bugis, Makassar and Mandar. Some shops are high-quality gold traders’.
Losari Beach
Losari Beach is one of the icons of Makassar. Attached is the name of the city and the four major ethnic with a striking red color. Several statues of ethnic symbols (buffalo, women weaving, etc.) as well as several statues of historical figures also adorn this public open space.
Fort Rotterdam
Fort Rotterdam or Fort Ujung Pandang (Jumpandang) is a fort of Gowa-Tallo. Located on the coast west of Makassar, South Sulawesi. Built in 1545 by the King of Gowa-9 named I Manrigau Daeng Bonto Karaeng Lakiung Tumpa'risi 'kallonna. Jumpandang Fort (Fort Rotterdam) is shaped like a turtle who wanted to crawl down into the ocean. In terms of shape very clear philosophy of Gowa Kingdom, that turtles can live on land and at sea.
Hasna and Hasni joined when we were just out of Fort Rotterdam. Ihsan and Lutfi invites us to sit across the street while enjoying a young coconut. We chatting about urban settlements, on the target achievement indicator of 100-0-100, on city changer movement, and the plan of Prof. Kim’s guest lectures in the new campus of Hasanuddin University.
Hasanuddin University, Tamalanrea Campus
Arriving at Hasanuddin University campus in Tamalanrea, Makassar city. The buildings looks aging, but increasingly green verdant plants and trees. It was nice to come back to this campus that full of memories. We, Prof. Kim, Mr. Ihsan, Mr. Lutfi, Hasni and Hasna walked slowly to the Department of Architecture, while feeling the natural surroundings. We are also used a time to the Dean of Engineering office, and then to the office of the Vice IV Rector (Inter-national Collaboration), Prof. Dr. Budu.
New Campus of Technology Faculty
The new campus in Gowa is, quite spacious, very spacious even for one faculty only. Faculty Of Engineering. This campus built on the former land of Gowa Paper Factory. The construction is still ongoing, under cooperation and assistance of JICA soft loans.
Visiting Prof. Tommy Eisenring
Wednesday night, we (Prof. Kim, Ihsan, Mukti, Hasnah and I) arrived at Jl. Bontolangkasa no. 11, Prof. Tommy S.S. Eisenring and family's home. The second son of Prof. Eisenring Dikwan outlines Architectural Sociology. Our discussion is about the settlement of low-income people and the causal relationship between social behavior and architectural design. Prof. Kim said that public spaces in the form of parks are very necessary in settlements.
Seafood Dinner with Prof. Shirly Wunas
Even though it was raining that night and there were a lot of puddles on the road, we arrived at a seafood restaurant in the Panakkukang Mas area. Prof. Sung-Kyun Kim looked happy enjoying a variety of seafood that was served. Prof. Shirly Wunas told him about a plan to facilitate her students to visit Korea for a field obser-vation study. She asked Prof. Kim whether he can facilitate them when they visit Seoul. Prof. Kim promised to show them Deoksugung-gil and his other projects.
Guest Lecture at the New Campus
Thursday January 20, 2015, on the campus of Gowa, Prof. Sung-Kyun Kim gave a public lecture entitled "Sustainable Waterfront and Urban River Restoration" and "Pedestrian Oriented Street Design". Hasna and I had a chance to talk about City Changer and Sustainable Settlements Program 100-0-100. Meet Uncle Louis Santoso, Architecture lecturer of Unhas, he is also a close friend of my father. Her daughter Bebi is now a lecturer in Regional Planning Study Program, Architecture Department.
The next day, on our way to Bulukumba Regency, we (Prof. Kim, Hasna, I and our driver) stopped at several places with the cultural landscape those were typical of the Makassar tribe.
Balla Lompoa, Gowa
Historic Sites of the Kingdom GOWA Makassar PALACE Domiciled In the district of South Sulawesi GOWA. Now already a museum relic GOWA Kingdom of Makassar in South Sulawesi. Beside the main building, Built a duplicate Tamalate PALACE refers to the original size in ancient times. Tamalate Palace and Balla Lompoa are remnants of the Royal Palace of Gowa who now serves as a museum. Balla Lompoa Tamalate palace and is located adjacent to the complex in Sungguminasa, Gowa. The distance is about 15 kilometers south of the center of Makassar.
Salt Ponds, Jeneponto
Sulawesi are located at the west end. Well-known as a producer of salt. Many salt ponds between the shaft and the sea. Nine of the ten sub-districts are in the lowlands and experiencing dry eleven months throughout the year. This area is also producing rice and corn. Jeneponto is famous for its local culinary of somekind of soup.
Bulukumba Regency
We stopped at the historical site of Balla Lompoa, Bantaeng. Prof. Kim took some photos of the surrounding buildings and landscape. Then we attended a meeting with a local organization that paid attention to the Settlement of Low-Income People in Bulukumba.
In this secretariat, we (Prof. Kim and I), City Changer of Bulukumba, Hasna and Sudirman, Faskel and OSP PNPM Mandiri Urban and Public Work Unit consulted agreed to visit several sites. We decided to visit four settlements of low income people (assisted Faskel), then to a primitive tribe settlement.
The first location of settlements "squatters" who occupy the cemetery in Toae Palla Lama Neighborhood, Bentenge Village, settlements "squatters" who occupy the cemetery in Toae Palla Lama Neighbor-hood, Bentenge Village, Ujung Bulu District.
The second location, self-help housing of river-front: Palla Toae Baru Neighborhood and Kasimpureng Neighborhood, face to face; and, the Appasarenge Neighborhood and Nipa Neighborhood, that also face to face. Fourth neighborhoods are in the Village of Bentenge.
The third location, a settlement where a community manage the garbage and a garbage bank, in Loka Neighborhood, Loka Village, District of Ujung Bulu. In this neighborhood, there are many community activities. Women looked busy making handicraft from reused and recycle materials.
The fourth location is the scavengers community settlement in the village of Polewali. In this settlements, where 200 families live, there are only three toilets and bathrooms. There is a quite deep well that become a major source of clean water for this community.
Tanatoa Kajang, the Primitive Tribe in Bulukumba
The next visit, to the settlement of primitive tribes, Inner Kajang tribe. The communities live without modern technology, do not use the electric power, nor electricity light. They don’t have and don’t use money, but do barter for the purposes of daily life. From Outer Kajang to Inner Kajang, we drive through rubber forest.
To enter the Inner Kajang territory, we have to wear black or dark blue clothes. So we stopped at a house which provided the traditional clothes.
We have to walk from the gate, because this area is forbidden of any vehicles. We see a community space near the river where the people took a bath and washed clothes, on our way to the house of “Ammatoa”, the tribe leader. It’s about one kilometer distance.
Outdoor Breakfast at Tong San Café
There are a cafe Tong San in the corner, T-junction of Jl. Penghibur and Jl. Haji Bora provides a complete breakfast of yellow rice with side dishes, with coffee or tea. Thursday morning, January 22, 2015 we had breakfast this special menu, treated to my old friend, David Gosal.
Sightseeing Along the Way to Tana Toraja
On the way from Makassar to Tana Toraja, we stopped at a few places. Namely in Pangkajene, many sights paddies, and in Barru to have lunch at a restaurant with views to the sea that very beautiful. We stopped also in Enrekang in a coffee shop with views to the mountains of Bamba-puang and Buttu Nona. It's wonderful to drink hot local coffee in a cool mountain atmosphere. We were so happy with all the sensations at that time.There is a cave, used to be the hideout of Japanese soldiers. Prof. Sung-Kyun Kim assumed that the condition of the mountains with less trees caused by the war activities in the past. They minimized the places to hide under trees. I tried to imagine the reason.
Makale City
Makale is a district in the Tana Toraja Regency. It’s also the capital of this regency, Tana Toraja. The City of Makale is 310 km distance from Makassar City, the capital of South Sulawesi Province in Indonesia.
Our trip to here from Makassar City spent about 8 hours by car. Makale city laid on the 1500 dpl height. So, the atmosphere is cool here.
Rantepao City
Ke’te’ Kesu’ is a tourism village in Tana Toraja Region known for its indigenous and traditional living. Ke’te’ Kesu’ contained in the archaeological heritage in the form of grave stones estimated age of 500 years. This destination is 4 km in the southeastern part of Rantepao, Ke’te’ Kesu’ consists of pasture and rice that surrounds traditional house, which called Tongkonan.
Londa is a natural cave that functions as a grave / tomb with many gravestones by the Tana Toraja community. This cemetery is hundreds of years old, but is still functioning until now, as evidenced by many coffins and skulls that are still intact. Corpses were not buried but included coffins and coffins were put into a cave in Londa. Some local people are believers of the animistic belief known as Aluk To Dolo.
Sightseeing Along the Way from Tana Toraja
On the way from Tana Toraja back to Makassar City, we still stopped at several places on the side of the road to take some landscape photos.
In Makassar City, we only settle rental car payments. The car driver then drove us to the airport. Then we flew back to Bali.
Hotel Werdhapura, Sanur, Denpasar, Bali
Prof. Kim is scheduled to give a public lecture for a forum under the Ministry of Public Works, which is based in the Werdhapura Hotel Complex, in Sanur, Bali. The invitee, Mr. Taufan Madiasworo, provided accommodation in this hotel. Prof. Kim stayed at a cottage with great location, overlooking Sanur beach.
Special Lecture: Lesson Learned from Korea - BIPR Forum Discussion
The lecture was attended by many workers of Special Works Ministry, Bali representa-tive office, and some environmentalists, from Eco-Sanur there was Antonio Ismael, Prof. Alex and Ayu Suartika, a lecturer of Architecture department , Udayana University. There was an interesting discussion of Forum BIPR after Prof. Sung-Kyun Kim’s exposure on "Sustainable Waterfront and Urban River Restoration."
Mr. Taufan, as chairman of the forum gave a memento souvenir to Prof. Kim.
After the lecture, we enjoyed our time by experiencing the Bali garden landscape of Werdhapura Hotel. And We took turns, taking photos. Prof. Kim liked to capture me while jumping. I did it at least three times in the beautiful garden between the gapura walls. Then I took some pictures of Prof. Kim in the same place.
Enjoying the Twilight at Sanur Beach
That late afternoon we were at the beach, sitting while enjoying papaya juice. Not too chatter, we prefer to look at each other in silence. Then suddenly Prof. Kim asked me again to jump on the beach sands and he took several photos of me. He said, I love the way you are jumping, Nita... So cheerful!
It’s So Hard to See You Off
Jan 25 at 21:55 we left the Werdhapura Hotel, Sanur, heading for the Ngurah Rai International Airport, the car was driven by Ari, BIPR operational car driver. Frankly I felt sad to part with you, Prof. Kim. Thou who has been with me for nine days to experience a variety of exciting adventures in the enjoyment of the natural environment, cultural landscape, and the social environment and friendship in various places in South Sulawesi and in Sanur, Bali. However, on the other hand I was very grateful to all of the wonderful experiences into memories and lessons that gave me a deeper understanding of the variety of life, the natural biological diversity, as well as cultural diversity, particularly in eastern Indonesia, with the viewpoint of the cultural landscape.
At 22:15 We arrived at the international departure. You got out with a tote bag containing typical cookies of Tana Toraja and a backpack containing your computer. Ari the driver help him to lift out the suitcase from the back door. I held myself, not to go out to see you off. At that moment, I thought it was better to hide my sad feelings, outcry, and suddenly feeling lonely. I just waved my arm from behind the car window that is rather dark.
“Goodbye, my lovely traveling partner, see you again later in Bali, this August or September.” I whisper… No, I just said it in my heart…
♥♥
Comments
Post a Comment